Grand Seiko Ushio Diver Spring Drive U.F.A.
Grand Seiko brought their U.F.A. (Ultra Fine Accuracy) Spring Drive technology to a diver for the first time, powered by the new calibre 9RB1. The accuracy figure is remarkable: ±20 seconds per year – not per day, not per month, but per year. Housed in a 40.8mm high-intensity titanium case with a gradient dial in blue or green, it's also the most compact Spring Drive diver Grand Seiko has ever made. What you can't get from a photo is the dial texture. That requires being in the room.
Patek Philippe Nautilus 50th Anniversary
The Nautilus turns 50 this year, and Patek marked it with a whole collection of anniversary references. The one that stood out to us is clean and uncluttered – platinum case, no date, no center seconds, powered by the ultra-thin 240 calibre. A watch that celebrates a milestone by doing less.
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Skeleton
Zenith took the El Primero 3600 – one of the most visually compelling movements in watchmaking – and opened it up completely. The skeletonised calibre beats at 36,000 vph, measures 1/10th of a second, and still manages 60 hours of power reserve. Available in four variants, it's the kind of watch that rewards a second look – and a third.
Jaeger-LeCoultre Master Control Chronomètre
JLC brought something easily overlooked in the noise of bigger releases – a beautifully proportioned dress-sport watch in 39mm. COSC-certified, impressively thin, and the kind of watch that sits on the wrist like it was always meant to be there. The dial is simply beautiful. An everyday JLC that punches well above its price point – exactly the kind of value that's getting harder to find in the segment of luxury watches.
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Dual Time Cardinal Points
Vacheron took the Overseas Dual Time – a watch with roots in a prototype worn by photographer Cory Richards on Everest in 2019 – and gave it a full titanium makeover in four dial colours, each mapping to a cardinal direction. White for North, brown for South, green for West, blue for East. The orange arrow hand for home time is immediately readable. Interchangeable straps in the box, not a limited edition – our kind of watch.
These five stood out – but they weren't the only ones worth your time. Below, you'll find the rest of our picks from the show floor: watches that came close to making this list, a few that surprised us, and a handful of atmosphere shots from Geneva. Enjoy the view.
